Diving into the waves, diving into the cold September water of
the sea - discovering how wonderful this is, the waves breaking
over me, then drifting upon champagne-bubbling crests right on
to the beach, rising up and turning around to face the sea -
Another wave of icy water rushing towards me, the sensation of
sun-heated skin suddenly sinking into the icy breakers and the
very strength and force of the powerful waves warming all of
me - except my ankles and my feet, running back into the sea
On frozen feet for a challenge posed by an unstoppable rushing
of the water burying me in an avalanche of delight carrying my
weight within its bubbly iciness, and I love it - adore fighting for
my breath, getting up again and rushing back, repeat, a strong
Wave rolling me into a somersault, another one throwing me
down upon the sand, the next wave kindly rolling me towards
the beach - there is nothing to compete with this sensation as
I roll with the sea’s powerful energy and become one with the
Breakers rushing to and fro, never stopping - and finally I left
because the sun was growing dim, a cold wind blowing strong,
with the memory of what heaven on earth felt like, to keep me
company through all my days afterwards…
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